Khadi: From self-reliance symbol to sales struggle

Bengaluru: When the British took India’s cotton and flooded the Indian market with cheap, machine-made textiles from Cottonopolis, the local textile industry collapsed. For centuries, Indian-made textiles had been renowned for their quality, but the collapse of the local artisan economy caused these products to disappear.

The result was disastrous for the entire handicrafts industry. Years later, in an effort to revive the local economy, khadi became the symbol of Indian self-reliance, what some would now call Atmanirbhar Bharat. But how is this humble, handwoven cotton fabric faring after 78 years of independence?

“This year we expected to bring in about ?1.5 crore, but we only earned ?50 lakh. Earlier we used t o m a k e a r o u n d ? 2 crore,” said Shivananda Mathapathi of the Karnataka Khadi Gramodyog Samyuktha Sabha, a khadi producer and seller.

“Since the regulations on making the Indian flag changed during the ‘Har Ghar Tiranga’ campaign, we have suffered huge losses. We have 2,000 women working on the looms, how will we pay them?” The story is similar across the industry.

Another seller, B.S. Padmanabha of the Khadi, V.I. Development Association, said, “Sales are still down because of the amendment. We are ISI-marked, but others add cheaper materials and sell their flags for less.”

“At the very least, government agencies should buy khadi-made national flags to support the sector. The correct material should be used for government functions,” said Dr. Natesh D.B., CEO of the state’s Khadi and Village Industries Board.

“I request citizens to purchase khadi-made flags. These flags can be reused for five to ten years,” he added. Khadi businesses say that the majority of their sales once came from flags, but since that market has collapsed, they are struggling to increase overall sales.

Government initiatives so far have made little difference, and more needs to be done to keep khadi alive and help villages adopt this method of production, according to Dr. Natesh. “Many women over the age of 50 sit and spin the thread before weaving the fabric.

Their livelihood depends on this work. They earn enough to buy medicines and lead a self-reliant life for their families,” he said. He also suggested that the government should open more khadi stores wherever government complexes are vacant and urged Union MSME Minister Shobha Karandlaje to address the issue of the Khadi and Villages Industries Commission selling raw material at a higher rate than the market price.

Producers across the sector have requested that the government mandate the use of khadi flags in all government agencies during Independence Day celebrations. They believe this would guarantee a certain level of sales every year, helping sustain the industry.